Easier to paint than the Chaos ones were, that’s for sure! I tried to go a little lighter, as I noticed I had painted a lot of stuff very dark and dingy. It’s nice to have that extra token for when you need to keep track of things separately.įairly standard stuff for me at this point. Yes, it would be super cool to have matching tokens for every single team, but I also have a ton to paint still.Īlso, there are two spare completely silver ones (one under the other), which I would use for the odd ‘Leader’ and other rerolls that Coaches can gain under special circumstances. I have enough of those tokens for three teams now, so there isn’t much point in going over board on these. I ‘m sure I’ve said this, but this could be the last time I paint up this many Reroll tokens. There are some other notes about the team, but I will get to those as I post more pictures up. The others barely had base paints, and have been completely redone. One was fully painted, and I kind of liked him, so he’s pretty much been untouched. This team was a bit similar to the Humans, in that I had purchased a few minis that were partially painted off of Ebay. My hope was to have 4 teams finished this year, but for a variety of reasons that hasn’t happened. The last team I finished, was the Humans and they were done around late July/early August. I like to thin this colour down slightly with a drop of Vallejo Glaze Medium to make it flow a little nicer, but not to the point where I need more than one coat.Well, it certainly has been awhile. There’s not a lot of leather on the model so you can afford to be careful! Be careful when you apply it as getting it over your green skin would be a bit of a shame at this stage, as you’d have to colour match to clean it it up. Additionally it’s the colour of all leather straps and cords. I use this colour as the base for all bone, teeth and nails. Make sure you give them plenty of time to dry between stages and before you handle them, unlike me – I decided that I would immediately touch my wet Orcs head and consequently had to do the final layer again. The final effect goes a long way towards making a natural blend of highlights and shadows. Of course, if you’ve got an airbrush you could avoid the dusty look altogether, you’d just need three greens similar to the colours above, and otherwise follow the same method. Zenithal Highlight using Army Painter Coloured Primers – Red lines indicate spraying angles So for us start off by spraying the whole Orc Angel Green, then from an angle of about 40 degrees spray Greenskin from above, finally from an angle of maybe 20 degrees hitting just the most upward facing surfaces spray Goblin Green. Don’t be put off though, I do address this flaw later on!īasically you have to start with your darkest colours working your way lighter, and as you do, increase the angle from which you spray. You’ll see what I mean in the images below. The only downside here is that I’m not a big fan of Army Painters Coloured Primers, I mean sure – the range of colours is great, but as sprays go, they tend to nearly always come out a little scaly or dusty. I use Army Painter Coloured Primers for these guys, in fact I used three in a super easy Zenithal Highlight method. 90% of a Savage Ork is green skin, so we might as well get that stage out of the way relatively painlessly and in a short space of time! Long term fans of the blog will not be surprised that I use coloured spray primers here. There you go, disclaimer over, you’ve been warned! This means I’ll mainly be sticking to base colouring, avoiding fancy layering or line highlighting techniques. What do I mean by that? I mean they look good from the typical distance between your eyes and the game playing surface. First thing to note, these won’t be winning any Golden Demons anytime soon, like most of my miniatures, I paint these to a good tabletop quality.
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